New Zealand in Aly´s Words

Hello Friends!

Aly here - Erin and Drew offered for me to write a guest blog. I've experienced so much in my short time here that I'll try to narrow it all down to my top 5 favorite experiences. Here we go:

5. As I was learning about NZ before my trip, I was excited to find that the Royal Albatross, an amazing seabird with a 10 ft. wingspan (our Bald Eagles have a 6-7 ft wingspan), nests on one little teeny piece of land on the Otago Peninsula. We went here, to the Albatross Center, and I did the tour. Fun fact: after the Albatross chick fledges from the Peninsula, the young birds don't set foot on land for about 5 years! They fly with the Anartica winds and finally land (very ungracefully) to have a "teenage party" 5 years later to find a mate for life on the Peninsula! I saw an Albatross chick (they're freakin huge!) sitting on the nest and as the tour was about to leave I finally saw the magnificent adult glide in - breathtaking.

Albatross wingspan

4. As we drove from place to place, I was always struck with the beauty of the landscape but especially the tall mountains shooting out of beautiful blue lakes. The west coast of the South Island gets a ton of rain and its a combination of the rainfall and the presence of glaciers from 14,000 years ago that created this majestic landscape. Lake-surrounded mountains are a refreshingly soft contrast to the very dry, sharp mountains in the Rockies.

Erin swimming/bathing in a refreshing mountain lake early morning.

3. One night, we went to a small beach (near the Albatross Center) because we were told that the very rare and endangered Little Blue penguin (the smallest of all penguins - about 10 inches) wanders up the beach and you can possibly catch a glimpse of one in this short window of time. We arrived around 8:30pm and it was quite dark already and we weren't supposed to use flashlights, or torches as they call them here. There were maybe 10 people waiting there and some areas were roped off. I asked a volunteer if many of the penguins had already walked past, did we miss them? She said most of the penguins had already come out of the water (they're in the water most of the day) and just a few were hanging out on a part of the beach we couldn't see. Then she spotted one walking towards us. As it waddled slowly past us, we fell silent and watched it intently in the dark. I had tears in my eyes as this little magical being crossed our path to head to its burrow for the night. One more waddled by about 10 minutes later, this one a bit more apprehensive of us. I felt blessed.

2. Okarito - a tiny little town, population 35, on the west coast about half way up the south island of NZ. Erin and Drew were told about a campground there by other backpackers so we decided to check it out. It had showers (a rarity for a campground), great drinking water, spacious grassy spots for our tents, and a hut to escape from the pesky sandflies. We spent 2 nights here and chillaxed on the beach between a lagoon and the ocean. Just in the distance were snowcapped mountains and the New Zealand bush home to the rare Okarito Brown Kiwi...

Okarito Campground

Sunset at Okarito - a bit of the lagoon and the Tasman Sea and its crashing waves is just beyond that strip of beach in the background.

1. When we arrived in Okarito (and thought we only had one night there), I discovered that there is one tour guide there (in partnership with the DOC or Dept. of Conservation) who offers experiences in the bush to hear or possibly see the very rare and endangered Brown Kiwi - New Zealand's national bird. I walked over to the tour guide's office/home and asked if I could join the tour that night. He had a limit of 7 people and it was full. Though he thought twice about letting me in b/c I spoke english well and there were some non-english speaking people in the group and he may need my help. I told him I have experience doing wildlife monitoring and I wouldn't let him down. He let me in for the tour that night and promoted me to co-guide! I was thrilled!

As we walked out into the thick forest at dusk with our light reflecting vests on, walkie talkies in pocket, and netted bug hats in hand, we learned more about the Kiwi bird. I was shocked to learn that the Kiwi has nostrils on the tip of its long bill, whiskers on its face, a body temperature close to humans, fur instead of feathers, and a few other features that make it more like a mammal than a bird! Ian, the guide, told us where to patrol - we all had our own 30-50 yard long space to listen for the vocalizations or the heavy footsteps of the Kiwi. After about 10 minutes on my own, (listening to Moreporks or owls call and the cloud of sandflies above my head) Ian called on the walkie-talkie and told us to come quick. I ran down the trail about 120 yards to find the group already there, standing quietly still. A Kiwi called loudly and we waited and waited listening to the pair in the bush. We went down to another spot where somebody else heard another Kiwi. Ian went back to the first spot and after a few moments, he called my walkie-talkie and told us to hurry to where he was. I motioned for the group to go! quickly! and I ran down the trail again. As I ran, I realized how funny I must have looked - I was wide eyed with excitement and thrill and trying to see as much as I could b/c it was pitch-black in there. I was also trying to run softly so I wouldn't scare the Kiwi's once I got there so I ran with a softness and my arms bent out at my sides. I also had a big goofy grin on my face as my heart pounded and I felt so alive! I arrived to see a male and female Kiwi pair sniffing around on the trail looking for grubs and worms. Ian shined his red flashlight behind me and asked if the group was coming I said they should be and we saw them waddling down the trail slowly. By the time they arrived the Kiwi pair disappeared in the bush. We waited here for awhile and the female came back out. We watched her sniff around and she delicately and sweetly walked across the path into the bush again. It was an amazing night and I left the bush feeling exhilirated and alive.

I came to NZ to be with my friends in another country but more importantly to feel alive again...to step out of my winter rut and step into some challenges. I head back to Colorado with plans to keep this aliveness awake and plans to travel more frequently. I'm sure I'll fall into my humdrum schedule again but I have my memories to tap into when needed. Erin and Drew are off to South America tomorrow riding the intensity of life's potential's and adventures. They are an inspiration to me and a gift. I am honored and humbled to have had this time with them.

Lots of love and light,

Aly

Wonderful Week in Wanaka and Beyond

First off, Happy Easter to everyone! Hope you had a fun celebration with friends or family!

Over here and down under New Zealand continues to be grand. After a busy first few weeks getting things in order up in Christchurch and then marching off to our first couple of pre-scheduled treks, we finally had a chance to take a deep breath and relax and chill out for a week. We chose Wanaka as the town in which to do that. It's a smaller, more mellow Queenstown - beautiful lakeside town, surrounded by mountains and outdoor activities but without the hordes of tourists and all the adrenaline. It's also the former home of my Aussie friend Sheena from Kelty who gave us the inside scoop on all the hot spots to hit. Thanks, Sheena! The place suited us well, and we enjoyed our week in Wanaka.

On the summit of Mount Roy with Lake Wanaka and Mount Aspiring behind

In addition to taking a much-needed shower, we explored the surrounding mountains. First we hiked to the summit of Mount Roy and enjoyed panoramic views over Lake Wanaka and the nearby countryside. We also did an overnight trip into Mount Aspiring National Park, spending the days hiking to glaciers and mountain lookouts and spending the evening in the backcountry Mount Aspiring Hut. Mount Aspiring is the second highest peak in NZ, and it sits at the the head of a quintessential New Zealand valley - green, glacier-carved, filled with sheep and cattle, stream meandering down the middle, mountains on either side, glaciers feeding the river - simply beautiful.

Rob Roy Glacier

Hiking up the gorgeous Matukituki Valley

The valley from above looking across to Mt. Aspiring

During our time in town, we enjoyed strolling around the quaint, hip, compact Wanaka downtown. One of the highlights was checking out a flick at the Cinema Paradiso, a cool theater that features unique couch, lounge chair, and even old car seating in the film room and the most sumptuous freshly baked cookies at intermission. And through it all, we just enjoyed having the time and open schedule to relax and stay in one area and check out our surroundings at an unhurried pace.

The comfy seating of Cinema Paradiso

After leaving Wanaka, we retraced our steps back north to Mount Cook National Park. When we drove through this region earlier on our quick trip south, the Southern Alps were socked in by clouds and rain. Upon our return, we were psyched to enjoy clear and sunny weather and were blown away by the striking, glacier-filled mountain vista as we approached. The range rises up dramatically from the plains, and Mt. Cook stands out well above the rest as the tallest peak in NZ. We did a few dayhikes to the nearby glaciers, but the highlight of the trip was a two-day backcountry trip to the Mueller Hut. This hut sits high up on a ridge opposite the many dramatic summits and glaciers of the park. It provides the perfect perch for taking in the scenery and watching and hearing the glaciers and seracs tumble off the edges of the hanging valleys that they have carved out. It was one of the most spectacular spots I have ever spent a night in the mountains and will stand out as a distinct memory of our trip here.

The majestic Mount Cook

Glacier crashing off Mount Sefton

Now we have rendezvoused with our friend Aly from Colorado and are in the midst of a whirlwind tour of the south island. We met her in the east coast town of Dunedin and spent a few days catching up while checking out the birds and water-based wildlife of the Otago Peninsula. She's an avid bird-lover and so we checked out the Royal Albatross Center, a place where these mighty seabirds with 10-foot wingspans make their home. We were fortunate to see them in flight. We also spent a few evenings at beaches awaiting penguins to make their way from the sea to their nests on land. We caught some sightings of both yellow-eyed and blue penguins. Our place of residence on Otago was the homey McFarmers Backpackers which provided a perfectly relaxed environment to catch up with Aly and enjoy the harbor views.

Aly and Erin on Otago Peninsula

Now we're on our speedy tour of all corners of the south island. We drove the whole south coast and made out way to Milford Sound. We had some minor drama on Easter Sunday morning when our car wouldn't start due to a dead battery after camping out on Milford Road on the way to the sound. But with some with some very generous help from a pair of American guys, an Austrian couple, and the Kiwi park ranger, we managed to get our hands on some jumper cables and our problem was solved. Our version of an Easter egg hunt, I suppose. We all handled it super-well and were feeling blessed on Easter Sunday for the kindness of some fellow travelers. One of the best lessons that I have learned on this trip is to relax and take things as they come and that things will work out - but in their own way and in their own time and without being forced. I hope I'm able to bring back these lessons and this mindset and apply it to my everyday life in the "real world." We shall see.

Doh!

Right now we're in Queenstown again and on our way to the west coast to check out glaciers and the mighty Tasman Sea. Then we'll head to the north coast of the South Island for another backcountry trip along the coast and hopefully some relaxed wine-tasting in the renowned wineries of NZ. Hope everyone is well in their respective corners of the world.

Cheers,
Drew

Sierra Blogging Post

For any die-hard blog readers out there, just wanted to let you know that you can read a parallel version of our around-the-world trip at Sierra Blogging Post, the blog for the outdoor retailer Sierra Trading Post.

- Check out the intro at http://blog.sierratradingpost.com/in-outdoors-camping-gear-forest-trails/around-the-world-with-drew-erin/
- Here's the blog's home page - http://blog.sierratradingpost.com/
- And to find all the stories on our trip, you can search "Drew and Erin" - Here's what's up so far. Stay tuned for more. - http://blog.sierratradingpost.com/?s=Drew+and+Erin

Thanks, STP, for the support!

- Drew

Tramping in NZ

It has been over a week since our last shower, but in many ways we've been spoiled over the last week. We've just spent seven nights in the "backcountry" of New Zealand's Fiordland and Mt. Aspiring National Parks. By backcountry, I mean we carried our own supplies, but we were by no means roughing it. The major treks in New Zealand are connected by a first-rate network of huts, which on the "great walks" include bunk beds with mattresses, indoor hangout space with a fireplace, stoves for cooking, running water, and flush toilets. As far as backpacking trips go, we were living large.

We began our tramping in New Zealand with the Milford Track, which is a highly popular, world-renowned trek. It's so popular in fact, that we had to book this last July to secure a place. The area is gorgeous, with high mountain peaks and U-shaped glacier carved valleys. The trip began with a boat cruise on Lake Te Anau to the trailhead, a trip which which in itself was amazing. Imagine being on a enormous lake surrounded by peaks that shoot stright up out of the water. The scene was made even more dramatic by the misty clouds that settled between the mountains. And after a few days of camping in the rain, we were grateful for a sunny day. We learned that the area gets around 9 METERS!!! of rain per year, as it sits just inland from the Tasman Sea, so we felt lucky to see the sun at all.

The hike was gentle, and the three-mile first day was short and easy. At the first hut, we met the ranger, Peter Jackson (not the film director) who did a great job of teaching us all about the natural history of the area. We loved it, and learned that New Zealand has a fragile environment, similar to any isolated island. It evolved in the absence of land mammals (except for a few bats), so there weren't any big predators. The island was a bird haven, and birds grew to be huge. One bird called the moa grew to be three meters tall (!), and many other birds like the kiwi lost their ability to fly. This was great until people brought new animals to New Zealand. Many of the bird species have suffered from predators like stoats (weasels), rats, and possums. It seems that one of the biggest conservation efforts in New Zealand is to eradicate these animals. Luckily, some birds are still doing okay, including the kea (shown in photo), which is the only alpine parrot in the world. They are also one of the smartest birds in the world, but can be very naughty if you give them the chance to get into your things. Peter also did a night hike with us, where a group of people walked the trail without lights. We saw glow worms and ended the evening with star viewing. The stars were incredible, far from any city and light pollution. Drew and I were excited to once again see the Southern Cross, and the night sky in the southern hemisphere.

We were lucky to have great weather during our whole Milford trek, and only had a few minutes of rain the whole time! We hiked over one pass and the views were magnificent, with beautiful razor sharp peaks. We also passed many gorgeous waterfalls, and crystal clear rivers. Sutherland Falls is the highest in all of New Zealand - over 500 meters high. The water is so clean, that you can drink straight out of the rivers without filtering. The rivers were also a great place to clean ourselves off after a long day of walking. The whole trek was about 32 miles long, which we walked in four days.

Between treks, we had one night in Milford Sound, where we stayed in a lodge and got to shower and sleep in real beds, then we were off the do the Routeburn Track. For all the good weather we had on the Milford, we had our fair share of rain for the Routeburn. We began on a rainy day, which didn't cease for the rest of the evening. It reminded me of the Pacific Northwest, and once you resign to being wet, it is actually quite beautiful in the rain. The forests were dripping wet, full of ferns and moss-covered trees. It also makes you appreciate the warm, dry huts, once you get there.

The next day was socked in as well, but the rain slowed. We hiked through a forest that reminded us of "The Lord of the Rings" movies, and then hiked up onto a ridge. It was nice, even though we only got glimpses of the mountain views across the valley. The clouds swirled around us, and at times a window of sun would dance across the mountains. As we descended down into the next valley, the weather began to clear, and we made our way to the most beautiful hut for the night, next to a huge waterfall with expansive views of the surrounding peaks. Our last day was sunny and beautiful and the drive out of the hike was as stunning as anything we've ever seen.

Now we're back in civilization, spent a night near Queenstown, which is the "adventure capital of the world." We treated ourselves to huge Fergburgers (thanks for the tip, Sheena!) after too many freeze dried meals, and spent the night camping. We hiked up Queenstown Hill the next day and got great views over the area. Now we're in a small town called Wanaka, which is just another gorgeous place in New Zealand, on a lake surrounded by more mountains. We're planning on spending the next week around this area, relaxing and settling in a bit. Today, we're even going to take showers!

View from Queenstown Hill

Erin