The Land of a Million Elephants

Hey all. Hope you're still out there. We've had a marked decrease in comments, but we optimistically presume that's due to the winter doldrums or busy schedules rather than a drop in readership. In either event, if you're out there and following along, drop us a comment. It's a great boost for us on the road, and we love to hear from you.

We're now in Laos (pronounced like it rhymes with wow, s is silent). I had a chance to see and speak to my sister and mom and nephew by Skype a few days back which was a thrill. During the conversation, my sister asked something along the lines of "What the heck is the deal in Laos?", owing to the fact that it's a country that's off the radar screen for most people and therefore a mystery - me included, until this trip. To help clear up the mystery, check the destination info in the right margin for a link to the Wikipedia entry for Laos. But I'll give my quick take here as well.

Laos is a small country, sandwiched between Thailand and Vietnam, with China to the north and Cambodia to the south. It also borders Burma. It's a small, poor country with most of the country still living on subsistence agriculture. It also is scarcely populated with only about 6 million people total. It was a French colony for a long time so that influence is apparent in many ways. The government is communist, although now more and more in name than in economic system. Like China, it's gradually opened itself up to market practices, but the government still retains strong control and power over the country. Today Laos is a very safe country with minimal crime (sigh of relief, Mom). But its history has not always been so. It owns the dubious distinction as the most bombed country in the world. In the 70's, there was a covert war that took place here in the shadows of the Vietnam War. Laos was basically a fighting grounds for capitalism - led, armed, and supported by the U.S., although with full denial from the US government - and communism - with arms and backing from Vietnam, China, and the Soviet Union. Laos unfortunately paid the price. When the US left Vietnam, communists took over in Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos. And the communist government still retains power here, although they've evolved over the years.

On a more chipper front, Laos is super-laid back and pleasant. Even crossing the Mekong River from Thailand which is a mellow country, you could feel a palpable change in pace - slower, less traffic, less tourists (or "whiteys" as we call them), more rural. It's quite nice. The landscape is green rolling hills and forested small mountains. There are also lots of rivers and elephants. Oh yes, and Beer Lao, the national brew, a lager that costs about a buck a beer. Good stuff.

Our first full day here was sweet. We arranged a sangthaew ride to a local village where we happened upon their Lunar New Year's celebration. They immediately welcomed us and invited us to their party and started to toast us with drinks of their homemade rice whiskey - called lao lao. It was incredible. I'll let Erin tell you more as she arranged another ebook with the local teacher who was our liaison since he spoke English. And just now, we enjoyed a tasty meal overlooking the sunset on the Mekong River and Thailand to the west.

Tomorrow we start a two-day slowboat trip down the Mekong where we're going to try to reach a remote town called Hongsa which is supposed to have lots of wild elephants in the nearby area and should be off the beaten path.

That's our deal. Let us know what you're up to in your neck of the woods.

Cheers,
Drew