The Andes of Argentina

In the last weeks, we´ve spent most of our time in a national park of Argentina called, Los Glaciares. First, we did a day trip from Calafate to a nearby glacier, called Perito Moreno, which is by far the biggest glacier we´ve seen on this trip. We spent a few hours watching it and to our pleasure, watched as huge chunks of ice split from the glacier and crashed into the lake. It almost seemed to happen in slow motion, you would first hear a loud crack, and then watch as crumbled into the lake, creating a huge splash, and a ruckus of noise.

Perito Moreno Glacier

From Calafate, we travelled north to a small dusty town called El Chalten, where gauchos (Argentinian cowboys) still make their home. It´s a small place without atms or the regular conveniences of most touristy towns. For example, the grocery store only has a few staples like rice, noodles, and mayo (South Americans love their mayo) but you can´t find much else. The town was changing before our eyes though, they were paving the streets and new buildings were going up every way you turned your head. In another year, it is going to be a totally different place, but during our stay it still had a lazy, rural feel to it. The town is right at the gateway to the national park and has free camping and no fees to get into the park. It was our kind of place!

After having a night in the campground, we made our way into the park. For all the luck we had on our trip to Los Torres del Paine, we got our share of rain on this one. It started after about an hour of walking, and by the time we got into camp, we were completely drenched. I´m talking wet to the core: shoes, socks, pants, backpacks, everything but the insides of our bags which were lined with plastic garbage bags. We set up camp in the rain, which got the tent wet, and by the time we got in, even the inside was soaked. It made for a miserable night in the back country, especially when we had to go to the bathroom and put our cold wet clothes back on, so we could keep one set of clothes dry. We were further tormented by mice that don´t seem to be afraid of humans at all. I awoke to one peering in at us as it climbed up the mesh window of our tent. I usually love animals, but man do I HATE mice!

Sunrise on Cerro Torre

Amazingly, we woke up to a perfectly clear day! It was warm and beautiful and we got up and watched the sun rise onto Cerro Torre, another beautiful tower of rock set behind a lake and a glacier. We dried all of our clothes and had a magnificent day, hiking along side the lake with stunning views the whole time. In the afternoon, we made our way to another camp called Poincenot, at the base of Monte Fitz Roy. We had views of this mighty peak as well, and felt like all our suffering was worth this marvelous day we were having.

Drew and Cerro Torre

We decided to make the most of our good fortune and wake up early the next morning, to hike up to a viewpoint of Fitz Roy for sunrise. Everyone who knows us, will understand that this is a big feat for us, as we are not morning people. It feels like complete madness to crawl out of a warm sleeping bag, to face the darkness before dawn and hike an hour up a slippery, icy trail. But we were troopers, and even brought a stove to make a hot breakfast at Lago de las Tres, a ridge looking directly at Fitz Roy. We did get great views of the sunrise, but what we were hoping for was the alpenglow on Fitz Roy. Unfortunately we barely saw the mountain at all, because clouds had overtaken the summit, and as we reached the ridge, the wind was howling and it started to rain. We still made our breakfast, and if nothing else, had a good cup of coffee.

At Lago de las Tres, Drew is cooking our breakfast

On the way down the trail we again got completely soaked from the rain, but luckily we had a dry tent to go back to. When we got to camp, wet and cold, we found that birds had destroyed our food bag that was hanging in a nearby tree (out of reach of the mice). They seemed to tear up every piece of plastic they could find, but only ate the meat and cheese products. We were hoping to spend another couple of nights out, but now we were running low on food.

The Culprit

We got into the tent, a bit defeated, and spent the rest of the afternoon tucked into our sleeping bags. It rained so hard that water was pooling up under the tent, and I have to admit, I broke down and and was not enjoying life too much when we had to get out and dig a trench. The next morning we woke up to fresh snow, and decided to cut our losses and head back to civilization. My mood increased as we headed back to the comfort of hot showers and a warm, dry room at a hostel. We celebrated by going out to eat and got the biggest, most delicious piece of steak. Oh, it´s all about the little things in life!

Morning of our retreat back to town

After two nights in El Chalten, we decided to make another attempt into the back country. This time we lucked out! We first hiked along a dirt road out of town to a waterfall. The fall colors of the beech trees were outstanding, and the hike was mellow. Just as we started to grow weary of being on a road, a van picked us up and drove us 30 minutes to the trailhead, saving us about two hours of walking. We hiked into a valley, called Piedra de Fraile, and had the whole place to ourselves. We camped next to a refugio that had closed for the season, protected by a massive rock (piedra) from the wind. By this point, we have become veterans at keeping away the animals, and had no more problems with the critters.

We woke up to clear skies, and hiked once again towards Monte Fitz Roy. We stopped at a beautiful hanging glacier called Piedra Blanca for lunch, and made it to the same camp, Poincenot, for early afternoon. This time, things were going our way, and despite our hardships last time we decided to try for the sunrise hike once again. This time around, we had perfect weather, and as we made our coffee overlooking Lago de las Tres and Fitz Roy, we got the beautiful alpenglow we were hoping for. It was absolutely worth all the pain we endured the last time, and now we were grinning from ear to ear. We watched as the mountains changed colors, on that warm, windless morning. I was so happy, I would spontaneously burst into laughter, not knowing how to contain myself. No matter where we are in life, we will always cherish these moments. This is what life is all about!

Sunrise on Monte Fitz Roy

Since then, we took a 30 hour bus ride to our new destination, El Bolson. We drove along the notorious Route 40, a dirt road linking the towns along the eastern side of the Argentinean Andes. These horrendously long bus rides are quite common in Argentina, and we got through it pretty easily, and probably needed the rest. It was two nights and one long day, but the worst part was that our legs got so swollen from sitting upright for so long, that they looked like we had sprained them.

Rush hour on Route 40

El Bolson is a quiet, hippy town that is just what the doctor ordered. We are staying in a quaint hostel with communal dinners, and a welcome feel to it. We´re enjoying some rest and relaxation, appreciating sleeping horizontally, showers, and other people cooking for us. From here we will do some more hiking, and then continue heading north to Bariloche. Until next time, adios!

The End of the World

View of Los Cuernos (the horns) from our camp on the first night

We made it out of Torres del Paine alive! We were both a bit nervous about the weather before we left. The look on the people´s faces returning from the park didn´t help, as they looked like they had been tortured. They were cold, wet, and tired, like they had fought the elements and lost. We also learned that the trip we had planned "The Circuit" was closed due to an avalanche covering the trail, so we had to modify our expectations. We decided to do the "W" instead, which would still take us to the park´s highlights. The "W" name is based on the shape of the trail we were following, each arm of the "W" being a valley in the southern part of the park. That set the stage for our trip into the park, and our expectations were low. We hoped for some views, a break in the weather, and the ability to endure whatever nature was going to throw at us. The forecast was for rain, rain, rain.

On the way into the park, the weather seemed to be getting better and our hopes began to rise. But as soon as we entered the park, the snow started falling and we wondered if we were crazy to be here. We couldn´t see more than a few feet in front of the bus, let alone the mountains, but we did get to see some guanacos (lama-like animals), andean condors, and pink chilean flamingos out of the steamy bus windows. As we drove into the park, the weather began to break up again and we got our first views of the mighty Andes on a boat ride to our first camp. We were elated to have even a glimpse of the mountains, as we were already facing the fact that we might not have that chance. Once we got to our first camp, we hunkered down in the cooking shelter for the night, and soon the snow began to fall and the wind started whipping through the valley. Luckily, we stayed dry and warm in our trusted Kelty gear, and made it through the first night in Torres del Paine.

View from the boat

On our second day, we did a day trip to nearby Glacier Grey. We initially intended to camp near the glacier, but things change in this part of the world, and the weather rules. It was a nice hike with cool temps, and the weather was holding out for us. But just as we finished eating, the skies opened and it started to snow. The weather changes in an instant in Patagonia, so quickly it´s hard to predict even a minute before. So we pulled on our jackets and headed back down the valley, happy that we didn´t have to set up camp in this weather. The snow bounced off our jackets, and we felt lucky that it wasn´t rain.

Glacier Grey

On our third day, we picked up camp and moved towards the middle of the "W". We saw a sweet guanaco along the trail, and made our way to Valle de Frances.

Guanaco

Here we were walking right next to Los Cuernos. The trail up the valley was covered in snow and we slipped and climbed our way through it. The views of the surrounding peaks were gorgeous, even though they were covered by clouds. There´s something exciting about walking amongst clouds, and then having them open up to display the beauty around you. We got to a point where the trail abruptly ended, but we found ourselves completely surrounded by peaks, Los Cuernos and others with glaciers. Just as we left, the weather picked up again and the valley was quickly socked in with clouds. Next we made our way to camp, and got some of the best views thus far on the trip of Los Cuernos, with Andean Condors soaring by. One minute you see them, the next they vanish. Drew pointed out that by the time he pulls out the camera to take a picture, the scene has already changed. We felt so appreciative any time we did get a glimpse. Another highlight was seeing the stars that evening. At first we thought there was a cloud in the sky, but realized it was the Milky Way, so clear and bright. It was one of the best night skies we´ve seen in our lives, so far away from any city, at the end of the world.

View of Los Cuernos

The next day, we made our way to our final camp. The weather seemed to be clearing, and although there were clouds all day, we only got sprinkled on a bit the whole day. We made camp and spent part of the day staying warm in the nearby refugio. We had a campfire with new friends, and ate more chorizo (we ate about 3 kg of chorizo on this trip). We woke up the next morning to clear skies! It was one of those picture perfect days and Drew caught the sunrise on Los Torres (the famous peaks of the region).

Sunrise on Los Torres

We spent the day scrambling up an icy trail towards the Torres, and got to the mirador (lookout) just about mid-day. It was a sight I can hardly explain in words, coming up over the last snow bank and finding ourselves peering into a valley with the Torres towering above. I know I´ve said it before, but I think these have got to be the most beautiful mountains I´ve ever laid eyes on. They are so dramatic and massive. They look like nature´s castle. Imagine how we felt after preparing ourselves for a week of rain, not knowing if we would even see Los Torres, and getting a day like this!

View of Los Torres from the mirador

We were satisfied with our time in Torres del Paine, and spent the last day travelling in a bus through the park. From a more distant vantage point, we got views of the entire Torres del Paine massive. Drew likes these views best, where you can see everything and really grasp the scale of what you are looking at. It was absolutely glorious!

Now we are in Argentina. We´re in a small town called El Calafate, but I will save these stories for the next blog. We are in the land of beef, and tonight we are going to all-you-can-eat grilled meat buffet, with some Argentinian Malbec to wash it down!

At Los Torres with our new down jackets, given to us by Drew´s industry friends

Erin

In Patagonia

Well, we´ve made it to Patagonia, and guess what? You know how they talk about the weather being wet, wild, and crazy down here? They´re not kidding. It´s been raining and snowing and blowing sideways since we arrived yesterday afternoon in Puerto Natales. Tomorrow we´re headed into Torres del Paine National Park and hoping pretty badly that the weather turns, and we get a respite from the storms. It's no joke down here, but we´re well-equipped and experienced enough to handle it. The question is are we tough enough. The other question is will it be enjoyable. We'll see and check back in a week or so.

By the way, just watched the NCAA championship game on the laptop of the owner of our hostel through their WiFi connection. It's a flat world.

Adios!
Drew

NZ Videos are Up!

Here are three videos giving you a moving glimpse of the sights, sounds, and scenery of New Zealand. Enjoy!

Glacier Crashing Off Mount Sefton in Mount Cook National Park, NZ. Film taken from Mueller Hut.



Matukituki Valley, Mount Aspiring National Park, NZ. Panoramic view above Aspiring Hut on way to Cascade Saddle.



Single Yellow Penguin Coming Onshore, Oamaru, East Coast, NZ

New Zealand Dreams

¨The truest living is when you are in dreams, awake¨ Henry David Thoreau

This sums up my feelings about our time in New Zealand. I felt so full of life, so awed by the beauty at every corner, that it felt almost like a dream, and a very long one at that. What a wonderful country, where you can experience city life, rugged coasts, glaciers, rare plants and animals, buying a car on a whim, wineries, and world class hiking all in a relatively small area! We made the most of our time and I feel like we have a pretty encompassing view of the South Island.

We´ve become so attached to our little blog here, that a trip doesn´t seem complete without saying a few words about each place before we can enitrely move on. So, although Drew and Aly did a great job of recreating the stories of our time together, I just have a few things to say.... One funny fact that we learned about New Zealand is that the population is only 4 million, but they have over 30 million sheep! It really is a land of animals more than people, and everywhere you drive you see sheep, and it feels like you´re on a farm even looking out the car window. I think this open land makes the country feel wild and pure. Besides the cities, there are no traffic jams, no big buildings, nothing blocking your view of your surroundings. I feel that my soul really thrives when I can look out upon beautiful rolling hills, hear the crashing of ocean waves, and feel humbled at the sight of an enormous mountain. New Zealand is full of those types of places and so I leave the island with a deep satisfaction, that is hard to explain in words, but you know what I mean.

“People's dreams are made out of what they do all day. The same way a dog that runs after rabbits will dream of rabbits. It's what you do that makes your soul, not the other way around.” Barbara Kingsolver

I also want to say how much it meant to have Aly in New Zealand. The hardest part of this wonderful journey is being away from our loved ones at home. We miss you all so very much. But having Aly come to New Zealand, was more than just the feeling of reuniting with a great friend, it was like having a little piece of home there with us. We shared great laughs that just don´t have the same depth with strangers, we caught up on each other´s lives, and we lived new memories together.

So to go along with the dream theme, I have one last quote. Pascal would appreciate this one!

“I think we dream so we don't have to be apart so long. If we're in each other's dreams, we can be together all the time.” Calvin and Hobbes

Love,
Erin

Hola from South America!

Erin and I are safe and sound on the ground in Santiago, Chile. We had a good flight yesterday from New Zealand and are fighting through the jet lag and getting ourselves acquainted here. Last night I was struggling to keep my eyes open at night, went right to sleep at 9 PM, woke up bright-eyed at 1 30 AM, laid there until 5 45 AM, then fell back asleep until Erin woke me up at 9 30. Ugh, the joys of travel. But it´s all good. I´m actually really excited to be here.

Even last night - our first night in town - it was so exciting to be in a new city in a new continent where the people are speaking a different language. The most basic tasks are challenging and exciting - finding the way from the airport to town by public transport, landing a place to stay, navigating the streets of a strange city. This leg of our journey is by far the least planned of our travels so far. We had a flight to Santiago and that´s it. No itinerary, no plans, no limitations - other than our budget and a three-and-a-half month timeframe. I feel it´s a measure of how we have grown as travelers to be able to approach this part of the trip this way. We´re confident that having full flexibility will ultimately improve our ability to tailor the trip as best we can, moving as we wish and retaining the ability to modify our plans as we hear or learn of new places or options. It should be the ultimate adventure.

La Plaza de Armas, Santiago, Chile

We walked through town last evening, and it was pulsing with activity. Lots of chileños walking everywhere. We made our way to the La Plaza de Armas in El Centro which is a historic open city square which was a hub of activity. It was quite amusing and rewarding to successfully order food alongside the locals at the express foodstands. I was quite proud, even though it is essentially the equivalent of ordering a hamburger and Coke at a fast food joint in the U.S. Somehow ordering an empañada and chucarero and 2 bebidas in Spanish in Santiago was more exciting. These are the simple joys and adventures of travel that balance out the jet lag and other downers.

One thing I´ve been surprised about is how few people speak English here. So far on our travels it´s been pretty to easy to speak English everywhere - even in places like Laos and Cambodia. Here it seems English is less common. It´s perfect actually, as we aim to learn Spanish and speak to the locals on their terms and in their language. That´s another unique aspect of this South American leg of the trip that I´m excited about - the challenge of learning a new language. Erin and I have both had a few years of Spanish in high school but have very limited experience actually speaking the language. We aim to take a course at some point and do lots of learning-by-doing. It should add to the depth of the adventure.

Before I look forward too much to this next and last leg of the trip, I´d like to add a few final thoughts on NZ. Again, what an awesome place. So gorgeous. And we were glad to have Aly join us. It was great to re-connect with a friend from Colorado and get caught up on all the goings-on at home - not to mention share a few beers and learn lots of interesting things about birds.

Okarito coastline

Over the last couple weeks of the trip, we did a whirlwind tour of the island which Aly did a great job of highlighting. Two of my favorite highlights were hanging in Okarito and wine-tasting in the north. As Aly described, Okarito was an undiscovered gem of a town on the west coast, offering a picture-perfect setting on the beach between the ocean and the mountains. It was a great place to relax and enjoy for a few days. It was also a place of which we had no knowledge before our trip to NZ. We discovered it only through word-of-mouth and the insights of other locals and travelers on our trip. Sometimes it is these unheralded spots that turn out to be the most pleasant and rewarding. In addition to the classics, it´s just these type of places we hope to uncover in South America.

Okarito sunset

My other highlight of the last portion of the trip was wine-tasting in the white-wine country in the Marlborough region. We stayed at Watson´s Way Backpackers in Renwick which is one of the best-run hostels in NZ. Aly, Erin, and I rented bikes one afternoon and visited five small, family-run wineries to sip and taste their best vintages. It was an incredible way to see the wineries and the region. The wines were excellent, especially the sauvignon blancs and the pinot noirs. And often it was the wife of the husband-and-wife ownership team that was pouring and describing the wines for us. Without exception, our hosts were friendly, down-to-earth, and unpretentious. The New Zealand way, I suppose.

Wine-tasting on wheels

Which leads to my last thoughts on New Zealand. So much is said about the land and the superlative landscapes of NZ. They´re outstanding. But I´d like to touch on the people as well. First off, there are very few of them, especially on the South Island. I think the total population is roughly 4 million, with only a quarter of those on the South Island which is the larger of the two in terms of area. It´s tough to characterize a whole nation of people, but I have some definite impressions. The New Zealand people we met tended to be very friendly and operated at a slower pace than in the U.S. Of course, a handful were short or even rude - like the young guy who nearly road-raged on us for going too slow the first hour after we bought our car in Christchurch and were cautiously driving on the opposite side of the road than we are accustomed - but these people were the exception rather than the rule. As an example, one Kiwi gentleman we met on the Milford Track even gave me his name and address and invited us to stay at his place if we made it to the North Island. Kiwis also tend to be down-to-earth, outdoorsy, and in touch with the land - whether that be in an sporty or hunter or farmer sort-of-way. And also in my opinion NZers give an impression of being a little innocent or sheltered - in a midwestern US farmland sort-of-way - especially in the older generations. There´s little crime or pollution or the ills faced by large, more urban populations, and that seems to come through in the attitudes and outlooks of the people. They enjoy small, close-knit communities. But at the same time they are a worldly and outward-looking people. I think that has a lot to do with the fact that they are a small, island country - with strong links to Europe yet situated in Asia and with a native population of Pacific Islanders. It also likely has to do with the fact that they have about 2.5 million tourists descending on their shores every year - a staggering number relative to their population. In any event, the Kiwis are a breath of fresh air, and I like them quite a bit. They´re a lucky lot - living in the paradise that they do and not sharing it with too many others.

On the Abel Tasman Coast Track

That´s all for now. Off to track down a good English-Spanish dictionary and let the learning begin.

Adios!

Drew