The End of the World

View of Los Cuernos (the horns) from our camp on the first night

We made it out of Torres del Paine alive! We were both a bit nervous about the weather before we left. The look on the people´s faces returning from the park didn´t help, as they looked like they had been tortured. They were cold, wet, and tired, like they had fought the elements and lost. We also learned that the trip we had planned "The Circuit" was closed due to an avalanche covering the trail, so we had to modify our expectations. We decided to do the "W" instead, which would still take us to the park´s highlights. The "W" name is based on the shape of the trail we were following, each arm of the "W" being a valley in the southern part of the park. That set the stage for our trip into the park, and our expectations were low. We hoped for some views, a break in the weather, and the ability to endure whatever nature was going to throw at us. The forecast was for rain, rain, rain.

On the way into the park, the weather seemed to be getting better and our hopes began to rise. But as soon as we entered the park, the snow started falling and we wondered if we were crazy to be here. We couldn´t see more than a few feet in front of the bus, let alone the mountains, but we did get to see some guanacos (lama-like animals), andean condors, and pink chilean flamingos out of the steamy bus windows. As we drove into the park, the weather began to break up again and we got our first views of the mighty Andes on a boat ride to our first camp. We were elated to have even a glimpse of the mountains, as we were already facing the fact that we might not have that chance. Once we got to our first camp, we hunkered down in the cooking shelter for the night, and soon the snow began to fall and the wind started whipping through the valley. Luckily, we stayed dry and warm in our trusted Kelty gear, and made it through the first night in Torres del Paine.

View from the boat

On our second day, we did a day trip to nearby Glacier Grey. We initially intended to camp near the glacier, but things change in this part of the world, and the weather rules. It was a nice hike with cool temps, and the weather was holding out for us. But just as we finished eating, the skies opened and it started to snow. The weather changes in an instant in Patagonia, so quickly it´s hard to predict even a minute before. So we pulled on our jackets and headed back down the valley, happy that we didn´t have to set up camp in this weather. The snow bounced off our jackets, and we felt lucky that it wasn´t rain.

Glacier Grey

On our third day, we picked up camp and moved towards the middle of the "W". We saw a sweet guanaco along the trail, and made our way to Valle de Frances.

Guanaco

Here we were walking right next to Los Cuernos. The trail up the valley was covered in snow and we slipped and climbed our way through it. The views of the surrounding peaks were gorgeous, even though they were covered by clouds. There´s something exciting about walking amongst clouds, and then having them open up to display the beauty around you. We got to a point where the trail abruptly ended, but we found ourselves completely surrounded by peaks, Los Cuernos and others with glaciers. Just as we left, the weather picked up again and the valley was quickly socked in with clouds. Next we made our way to camp, and got some of the best views thus far on the trip of Los Cuernos, with Andean Condors soaring by. One minute you see them, the next they vanish. Drew pointed out that by the time he pulls out the camera to take a picture, the scene has already changed. We felt so appreciative any time we did get a glimpse. Another highlight was seeing the stars that evening. At first we thought there was a cloud in the sky, but realized it was the Milky Way, so clear and bright. It was one of the best night skies we´ve seen in our lives, so far away from any city, at the end of the world.

View of Los Cuernos

The next day, we made our way to our final camp. The weather seemed to be clearing, and although there were clouds all day, we only got sprinkled on a bit the whole day. We made camp and spent part of the day staying warm in the nearby refugio. We had a campfire with new friends, and ate more chorizo (we ate about 3 kg of chorizo on this trip). We woke up the next morning to clear skies! It was one of those picture perfect days and Drew caught the sunrise on Los Torres (the famous peaks of the region).

Sunrise on Los Torres

We spent the day scrambling up an icy trail towards the Torres, and got to the mirador (lookout) just about mid-day. It was a sight I can hardly explain in words, coming up over the last snow bank and finding ourselves peering into a valley with the Torres towering above. I know I´ve said it before, but I think these have got to be the most beautiful mountains I´ve ever laid eyes on. They are so dramatic and massive. They look like nature´s castle. Imagine how we felt after preparing ourselves for a week of rain, not knowing if we would even see Los Torres, and getting a day like this!

View of Los Torres from the mirador

We were satisfied with our time in Torres del Paine, and spent the last day travelling in a bus through the park. From a more distant vantage point, we got views of the entire Torres del Paine massive. Drew likes these views best, where you can see everything and really grasp the scale of what you are looking at. It was absolutely glorious!

Now we are in Argentina. We´re in a small town called El Calafate, but I will save these stories for the next blog. We are in the land of beef, and tonight we are going to all-you-can-eat grilled meat buffet, with some Argentinian Malbec to wash it down!

At Los Torres with our new down jackets, given to us by Drew´s industry friends

Erin